NYFW DAY 4
11:01 PM
Day 4 of the NYFW opened with a presentation from our beloved and one of the first girlbosses out there, Diane Von Furstenberg. The brand, under a new direction of Jonathan Saunders who moved from London to New York and probably had the busiest three and a half months to live up to the role of the new Chief Creative Officer, he’s currently shaking up things for the brand.
With his background in digital printing and an
expert eye for colour he definitely put those into play in the new
collection. Prints mixing like multiple
dots and florals, asymmetry to resemble the easiness that the original 1974
wrap dress had and has. The asymmetry followed other pieces of the line or the unexpected
thing for the DVF; the lack of all the way to the dress’s hem print. The line embraced
outerwear as well, with leather and cotton trenches but also knitwear, which
Saunders himself believe that will become a more important part of the
business.
Next up we have Self-Portrait. It has only been
three years since the launch of the brand by Han Chong, but that doesn’t mean
that it stopped it for being a very recognizable one among all the collections
presented in the fashion week. He might
became famous with his guipure lace tea dress but he is always ready to explore
new territory which happened with his Spring 2017 collection. Lace it is not
his only trick.
The show opened with a guipure lace dress,
something familiar for the brands fans, but things got an unexpected turn,
going out of the girlish signature with military inspired jumpsuit that stopped
on shorts length, the PVC cigarette pants, cargo skirts with a high slit. The silhouette of Chong’s dresses changed to a
more relax and eased formula. And with tiny rows of buttons that ran along the
hemline which allows tiny bit of skin to be revealed, Chong is marching first,
with many high-street brands following him, to the death of the bare shoulders.
At the same time but in another location we had
Lacoste opening up their secret garden of Spring 17. Or as Felipe Oliveira
Baptista stated “It’s the idea of an endless summer” with a touch of ease,
comfort and a natural state, he completed. We all know the famous tennis based
brand with the well-recognized crocodile as a trademark. And we expected
something like that or maybe something not expected?
This time the clothes got a metropolitan turn
while they maintained the athletic vibe, with edge hoodies and a general
slouch. Baptista stated as “ it’s a bit softer and less technical” and also
mentioned that they washed the pique so that it’s like you’ve had it for 10
years, an affect that followed a long pique dress and overall the line
presented. The inspiration for something like that? Sunburned colours, taking
this aesthetic and applying it into a mood. Combining urban bound with the good
life, a mixture of bath robes wrapped a la Brigitte Bardot with hoods and high-waisted
sweatpants or oversized coats worn by women and men alike.
Following by Jill Stuart, we have a more
romantic turn. You might have noticed that ballet turns out to
be a theme that designers choose for their Spring collections. For this
particular collection the designer herself said before the show “I imagined her
dancing in the dark”. And that’s what she did.
Chiffons that floated with the strut of the
models in the runway. As we mentioned in our previous post Floral x Winter,
florals are primary a spring thing. So we saw them down the runway in pretty
combinations with slip dresses, that became a thing lately, paired over
leggings. Our personal favorite? The ballet wrap sweater. There is something
about it that make us remember this sweet chilly nights of Spring, when you
wrap yourself in all the memories of the winter passed. Now combine a wrap sweater
with lame pants, what do you get? A glimpse and memories of the legendary
Studio 54.
Now when you think of Tibi, you think function
and ease. Exactly what the designer Amy Smilovic is for the brand. But then,
when she got asked what the Spring ’17 collection is all about she said “A
little bit of Edwardian proportions. Strong color. Finding a way to do corsetry
and big shoulders and everything in a way that’s very eased out and modern and
not costume-y. The way that you want to wear it”. Emphasizing the waistline
line she says, that’s what is all about.
Taking a challenging turn from all the slouchy,
long layering and silhouettes that had a touch of androgynous, the collection
was inspired from the Edwardian era with embellished skirts and Juliet full
sleeves. She also opted for simplicity, taking into consideration the over
complicated lives women live today and wanting to take the chaos out of their
wardrobes, making styling and dressing easy. A relaxed suit that can be paired
with flat sandals and can comfortably slide into the existing wardrobe making a
stress-free morning routine.
Coming to Dion Lee now, the fashion world is
buzzing with what he accomplished to do this year! He managed to move his
collections from intellectual exercises to wearable, woman-friendly wardrobe.
He took the moto “simple is better” and ran with it.
As for the key themes we spotted on the runway;
one was a staple of outerwear with trench coats and anoraks taking the lead. Some
pieces of the original trench coat were magnified like the belt and the anorak
it was a game of proportions. One of his other theme, was playing with light
and the way it reflects from the clothes.He used that inspiration to draw light with
shiny fabrics or dappling others with sequins. The final result? The clothes
seemed effortless and the techniques can be categorized as an intellectual
exercise.
Last but definetely not least was Alexander Wang. The anticipation is over because the minute the runway lights came on, we knew that we will see the results of the long awaited collaboration of the designer with Adidas Original. What inspired him for that collaboration and helped him to take the final form as we saw it down the runway, the designer himself said " I looked at what’s theirs, what they own, and I flipped it, literally and aesthetically."
A theme that actually followed his own spirng collection, taking classic pieces and transforming them or maybe for a better word, shredding them apart. For example a the button-down shirt and merging male and female signifies, and suggesting unlikely combinations like the Hanne Gaby Odiele’s sheared white mink bathrobe coat, bra top, and board shorts. A movement that younger crowds will love. Backstage he titled his show as "50 shades of Grey meets Lords of the Dogtown". Sex was again the message of the collection but this time it was delivered in a more subtle way staying true to his Californian roots. Bathing tops from button-down fabric and silk evening dresses. Either ways, Alexander Wang is known for his young vibe and we-are-more-cool-than-you crowd the brand is surrounded by.
But it wouldn't be NYFW if we there is no front-rowers and believe me they are! As we said the crowd for the fashion show of Alexander Wang was too-cool-for-school once again! From Editor in Chief of Vogue USA, no other than the great Anna Wintour to Jourdan Dunn. Madonna and Lourdes stole the show by not only arriving late but also the press calling Lourdes the coolest girl on the crowd. Another stealing moment from the models on the runway was the appearance of Sixteen Jones, who was sitting alongside her father, with her white eyeliner and a Wang inspired look. Also, Zosia Momet, The Girls actor was spotted front row on the Jill Stuart show. Take a look below to the front rowers :
Hope you enjoyed Day 4 from NYFW as we did! Stay tuned for the upcoming days!
Thank you for reading!
Written by Doxy Pantazi, Chromantics Fashion Editor
Sources by: Vogue.com, wwd.com, Instyle Magazine, Vogue France
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