NYFW DAY 6

5:00 AM


New York Fashion Week is here, and as it happens each season we will be here with you reporting our favourite shows and giving you all the details of the hits, the misses and the things we need to have up until spring. So dive in, and let the fashion month begin! In case you missed the first few days of NYFW click the link:
DAY 1DAY 2, DAY 3, DAY 4, DAY 5

The day opened with the glorious 35th's anniversary of Carolina Herrera's anniversary in the fashion business and her collection was a perfect mix of the time that have passed. Her inspiration? Pieces from the past that got an unexpected update for "the woman of today" as the designer said herself.

Stand out pieces of the collections? The evening gowns proved to be the most enticing. What made them all enticing was the personal touches of the memories of the past. Like the gingham blouse the designer herself wore all the time and decided that it was time to be renewed for this collection. But she didn't limited herself into the past and moved into the future with medium-washed indigo denim dresses, paper thin brocades which managed to look very easy to pair despite their appearance and volume. As the designer wrapped it up "I'd like for this collection to be....effortless. Notice all the flat shoes!"


Next up we moved to Rosie Assoulin's presentation where the designer remind us that summer not matter what bad of events can happen around the globe, the symbol of it it's still the beach. That was the vibe of the collection which gives hope to the watcher. Sticking her umbrella into her own beach Assoulin remind us that summer is still not over and drew inspiration from her own childhood vacation from Jersay Shore. She gets to experience that all over again with her own kids now but from a different point of view.
Dream vacations call for dream clothes as well. And that's nothing else than sundresses and cotton separates and the parachute kind of red gown (which if you ask us, we have dreams about it since last night). Even though the theme was dream vacations, that doesn't mean that Assoulin doesn't know about real women and she knows that they work and don't spend their time in a beach (as much they will want to) and managed to mix her couture shapes into casual florals and shapes. Follow the Assoulin way and be bright then ;)


From the calmness of the beach, let's leap to the craziness of Jeremy Scott. The good crazy that all want and anticipate from Jeremy Scott. The collection brought in mind the movie Smithereens and brought the good old vibe of the city that the movie also described.
The designer disclosed before the show, that indeed he had nostalgic moments of the 80s and everything that includes from East Village squats to pervy peep shows. This period still fascinated a huge crowd because it conjures a bygone vibrancy—a time when New Yorkers could get up to all kinds of freakiness, thanks to the fact that they were largely ignored. You could also see it from the flashy colour palette of the clothes showed. Also, another designer that its theme went around sex (after Alexander Wang). Bondage materials from latex and collars, to half unzipped clothes and knits and tees having HOT HOT HOT  or Rated X all over them. But you couldn't call it tacky. No not all. Actually you can relate his models to heroins and heroes. As we said in the beginning, we all want a piece of Jeremy in the end.


 Proenza Schouler duo had something new to show in their Spring '17 collection. The use of colour. And that's were we found ourselve sitting.
Going out of their later spring collections, in which they mainly used nude tones to symbolize spring, we saw colour in their clingy ribbed dresses. But they also stayed true to their art and revealed their trip to Paris in order to visit almost dead ateliers to pick up new techniques for the collections. We saw being translated to check tops were made from ostrich feathers glued into long strips of fabric (say what?!!) and stripped dresses woven from leather. We also saw some boxy oversize ees layered over long-sleeved shirts in a streetwise way and featuring, among other things, images of Greek statuary and a snapshot of Jack’s closed fist. 
We want to see more of these from Proenza Schouler for sure in the future if they want to continue to lead the fashion scene of New York city.


The day processed and we found ourselves sitting in the front row (virtually of course) of a what looked like an abandoned garage. Or park. Or a beach late in the night or early in the morning. Either ways, there were dirt and flowers on the make-a-shift runway. And we liked the dark vibe. Lim himself, looked in his Californian roots for this collection.
Another designer that took inspiration from another area of time, this time from the Victorian time, starting with bathing suit. And he tried to also put 90s into the mix with shorts-shorts,body suits with a thigh-graze and something that came to stay through the past seasons, no matter if it is winter or summer, the slouchy slip dress. Floral made a modest appearance on the runway and bikini tops under sleeveless coats remind us Gigi or Kendall. All in all, the relaxed beach vibe was present and made us crave spring and summer already.


Wes Gordon that it's up next, opted to take us to galleries and streets to showcase us his new Spring'17 collection. Not a bad idea for a change of scenery and tasting the clothes into real-time and life blend-ability. It's also not unusual for designer Wes Gordon to present his collection like that, since he likes video presentations or Instagram ones,more than building up a show. He believes by not doing so, he lets more creativity to come into the creation of beautiful clothes as he has stated.
He introduced his collection as a jewel box. We have to agree with him, since his clothes brought heavy notes of romanticism. He didn't escape as well the references to the 90s with the bias-cut slipdresses covered in lace in soft pink and nude tones. He worked out a paper thin plaid taffeta floor-length trench coat which worked wonders on taking us out of the variations of blush and nudes.

Up next is Oscar de la Renta. With newly announced creative directors on board, Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia of Monse but they weren't the ones that created the collection presented yesterday in New York. Instead they took the front row to enjoy it and they will take duties for the next collections. The design credits for the collection went to a studio team of 10 people that actually took a bow in the end for the audience. Brava to them!
No one can actually replace master Oscar de la Renta himself but the studio team did a fine job to keep the Oscar spirit up and running. Knit skirt suit, safari jackets and the peasant dress all made their appearance down the runway, with the evening & cocktail numbers not excluding them, especially an evening number with sheer shoulders and pearl & crystals sewed all over it, was a very Oscar-y moment. To conclude, the show had a nice breezy, youthful look with all the bejeweled flats that accompanied the pieces. We are looking forward to February and see what the creative duo will do to revive the legendary fashion house. 


Oscar de la Renta is followed by Zac Posen. Following the success of his fall collection that is currently on stores right now, and the feedback from the retailers, Zac Posen decided to move the techniques he uses to create his stunning evening pieces to day-time. The show presented was a perfect variation between day to nightwear, throwing in some not so usual creations of what we are used to Zac creating,
Motorbike pants and motorbike jackets followed the anatomical  seaming that he is using to his gown and they are expected to be fully adopted by his audience when especially you can pair it with a circle skirt and a white T-shirt. Talk about badass right? The aforementioned seams followed of course his dresses and the result was architecturally floating hemlines. And we know that the show was a home-run when Uma Therman gave a standing ovation during Posen's finale bow.


Rag & Bone. The semi to last runway of Day 6 showcased an interesting collection. It doesn't matter what kind of weather your country of residence has for a Spring, you might be in Greece and hot or ina rainy spring London day, Rag & Bone got you covered with the collection that hit the runway the previous day.
Another company that hit the reset button recently with the departure of David Neville from the designing duties (you notice a pattern here? We are also wondering what all those brilliant designers are gonna do now!) They went back to their original roots with their motocross inspired looks, the English school-boy aesthetic and the 90's vintage. A slouch and bagginess was evident on the clothes, with over-sized sweats. Wainwright principle was, as he stated "stuff he grew up with/loves/thinks is awesome." And he did well for his first time solo!


Last but most definitely not least for Day 6 of the NYFW, we have DKNY. Earlier this summer, the brand was sold to the G-III Apparel Group, a company that owns and controls the licenses such as Calvin Klein. With also two new creativie directors on board, Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow, the question that was hanging around in the area was, what kind of direction the brand will take now?
With the collection complete by the duo of designers before the sale, it kinda had a prophetic sign into it. It's futuristic. And that's good because we don't know what the future of the brand will look like! Hoodies and anoraks were variated a lot in the collection setting another strut for the brand, a streetwise one. The elements of the DKNY were there but into another mixture of clothes. Hopefully the designing duo will be allowed to continue this way and we are hoping for a journey of a lifetime!

But we couldn't leave after we shared all of these amazing collections without any after-party fun! Remember, we are trying to make you feel as close to New York as possible where the fashion is buzzing. We are sitting front row here to all the shows and being A-listers to the after parties! And first it's the Jeremy Scott's Spring '17 after party were everyone was there. The designer stated that he is relieved that is over and always happy to have fun with his friends after it! Performances, lights and the booze was running free! Let's enter then, shall we?


Diane Von Furstenberg couldn't skip out all the fun, could she? That's why they celebrate the new collection and most importantly the new person behind the wheel, Jonathan Saunders that already gave a new blow of wind into the DVF brand. Diane herself greeted all the attendees from Karlie Kloss to Allison Williams  and Leandra Medine and stated that she's very happy with Saunders and his intelligence with a confident aesthetic. Take a look below!

 

And a little street style for inspirtation!



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Thank you for reading! Stay tuned for more!

Written by Doxy Pantazi, Chromantics Fashion Editor

Sources: Vogue.com, wwd.com 
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